We have been asked by the Area presidency to visit each of our seven Gathering Place pilot stakes. We wanted to meet each stake president and learn of their successes and concerns as they move forward over the next six months. Two of the selected pilots are in Nigeria, not an easy country to enter, so we began taking the steps for travel. The senior missionaries who had traveled their shared cautionary tales, the area presidency member we report to insisted we notify Church Security, our children became animated with stories of kidnappings and “knowing a guy” who could help in a crisis. To obtain a travel visa, a mandatory appointment had to be scheduled with the Nigerian High Minister of Travel stationed in Accra. His job is to personally interview everyone seeking entrance and determine their intentions. He then grants one of three outcomes: no admittance, three months entry, or the desired six months entry. Church travel expedited our request, so after only a two week wait it was our good fortune to be interviewed. Then a week later our visas were returned marked “six-month entry.”
The first of the two pilots, Ile Ife Stake, is north of Lagos. It is said to be where civilization began as the gods descended to earth. We flew from Accra to Lagos, where we were met at the airport by a Church driver who transported us to the local Sheraton. The Sheraton has been cleared by Church Security as a safe place.
- I could contact a retired police officer I know to arrange security for them. I like your in-laws' faith but I tell you Jeremy, Nigeria is a very dangerous place.
- In a sea of black people even the blind can see your in-laws! Please tell them not to take any risks. I know they love the work they are there to do but please avoid avoidable risks.
We traveled for two purposes. First, to train stake presidencies and stake YSA committees on the purpose of Gathering Places. Second, to confirm the delivery and operation of the ten pilot computers and to observe the training on the RACHEL server.
Our Nigerian travel companions were the Lagos driver Uche, the Church ICS employee Clements, and three YSA contract workers Jefferson, Emmanuel, and Zenith, to train on the RACHEL. Together we drove from Lagos to Ile Ife arriving at a very typical looking church building after a wild five-hour drive. The longest part of the trip was on a mostly paved highway that was missing the painted lane division marks we are used to in the US. No lines=no order. Luckily, our driver was excellent at maneuvering through the traffic. He seemed to know every twist, turn, and pothole along the way and how to interject himself into the stream of vehicles moving quickly down the road.
The Ili Ife stake president was a jovial man who had a friendly, comfortable relationship with his committee. He was pleased that the pilot brought internet and computers to his building. His biggest concern was how to transport the YSA from small branches in the outlying areas to the Gathering Place.
We are always interested in what has shaped the testimonies of the people we meet. The stake president told us that six months prior his house burst into flames and burnt to the ground destroying everything the family owned. The fire happened so suddenly that he didn’t have time to grab a pair of pants. But, when each member of his family was safely out of danger standing next to him, he knew the meaning of real value.
After a day and a night in Ile Ife we returned to Accra. Our next stop was Akamkpa, a plane ride from Lagos, with the nearest airport and hotel being Calabar. As we landed, I saw a two groups of school children on a field trip obediently standing on the tarmac close to the terminal. I couldn’t help myself from walking up to the group as we deplaned to say hello. They were immediately thrilled at the attention of the white schoolteacher from America and insisted on taking a “snap.” I felt I had pushed my luck, first by breaking from the line of passengers, and second by talking to the children, so I hurried back in the direction of the terminal. I was a little nervous when I heard a guard yelling to me. It turned out that he wasn’t angry but was saying the second group was jealous I had ignored them, so he was asking me to “snap” with them too! Another round of “snaps” was a joy, and a relief! For a moment I pictured Dale needing to find that “guy” who could free me from disaster.
On our arrival, the hotel management instructed Dale and me not to leave the compound unaccompanied - something about white skin people being targets for kidnapping. Inside the compound we felt safe, but that could have been influenced by patrolling guards carrying rifles. Calabar has the distinction of being the “cleanest city” in Nigeria. Which it appeared to be! The streets, gutters and sidewalks were free of the ever-present layers of plastic bottles and bags seen throughout other places we’ve traveled in West Africa. Apparently, a former mayor was passionate about cleaning up the city and fined people who threw as much as a plastic bag on the ground. Bless that mayor!
A Church employee from Calabar became our new driver, with the assignment to drive our team 1½ hours north to Akamkpa. During this time, we concluded that driving is 15% crazier in Nigeria than Ghana. The traffic is about the same, but the drivers are noticeably more aggressive and determined. We experienced a traffic jam on the road between Akamkpa and Calabar that would have made a New York City cab driver question his driving abilities. Drivers expanded the two lanes into five (sometimes six), with two lanes going one direction, the third lane going the opposite way, and so forth. Throw in the greatly oversized trucks carrying huge loads sitting crosswise on the two-lane road and you’ve got it!
It was on this drive that our Nigerian ICS friend, Clements, told us that people in his country are always competing with time. He said the government looks for a quick fix to problems and thinks nothing of bending the rules. The people, by the same token, are law abiding and don’t like to compromise the rules. Clements believes that Nigeria is the best country in the world with the happiest people in the world. A good commentary from a loyal citizen.
We found Akamkpa to be very green and rural. There are tribal tensions in the area which is why Accra Church Security suggested we request a police presence at the chapel. The stake president didn’t think it necessary if Dale and I stayed within the walled church property.
The church was very busy with YSA choir practice, followed by institute class and RACHEL training. We were shown the stove that was purchased for the Gathering Place catering class, the heavy-duty sewing machine for making shoes, and the knitting machine for making sweaters. This trained university professor stake president takes Gathering Place skills training to a new level! His concern is transporting YSA from the rural branches to the Gathering Place.
The highlight of this leg of the trip was sharing the afternoon with our remote Nigerian Gathering Place missionary couple, Elder Ugwu and Sister Ikudo Ihesiene. After months of meeting together through Zoom calls we were able to greet them with a warm hug! They are a dedicated couple, who willingly drive their little VW sedan across bumpy dirt roads thousands of kilometers to various Gathering Places in southeastern Nigeria. If the car has a mechanical problem, Elder Ihesiene gets out to fix it while Sister Ihesiene sings, “I’ll go where you want me to go dear Lord.”
Returning to Lagos, and after a good night’s sleep, we had time for an early Sacrament meeting before catching our plane home. As we sat listening to the prelude music, we noticed a nine-year-old boy reverently standing behind us. With a grin on his face, he extended his hand to Dale, and asked, “Are you a member of the Quorum of the Twelve?” He was so earnest. Dale explained he wasn’t Elder Uchtdorf (others have asked—it’s the hair), but he’s had the opportunity to meet Elder Uchtdorf and shake his hand. As Dale shook the boy’s hand, he told him to always remember that when he was nine, he shook the hand of someone who shook the hand of an Apostle of the Lord. It was a sweet way to end our time in Nigeria.
This was a wonderful account of your travels! Nigeria travel sounds like a whole different ballgame- riding in the car must be terrifying. News of the danger for you as white people was also scary. You both look very calm and happy. It does seem that you have many people watching your backs. That is where Jerry Nelson and Ruth Thornock Nelson served as Mission Presidents and they had some interesting episodes. The preparation for your visit and the programs of the YSA Committee was impressive- a choir, classes on catering, sewing, knitting, and making shoes- you guys will be able to do everything. JoAnn, I love your skirts- are they purchases you made there?
ReplyDeleteYou are doing so many interesting and fun things along with all the hard work. Be careful and remember that we love you so much!
Dale, you do remind me of Elder Uchtdorf!
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